perjantai 13. tammikuuta 2017

1910s project

I have something new to share at last! I've started a 1910s project partly because I've been planning that for a long time and partly because this year is the centenary of independence in Finland and I wanted to do something costumey for it. I even put together a loose outline of a sewing challenge for my reenactor and costumer friends around here and I think we'll have an event or two around this theme later in the year. The basic idea of that challenge is to make some kind of outfit in the fashion of 1910s; everybody can choose the year they like best, for me it's turning out to be 1914.

So far I've been sewing the underthings, of course, and they're finally done. I made a shift, a corset, a petticoat and a corset cover.

The shift is a simple shape, with a lace yoke and straps, a drawstring at the waist and a gusset flap that buttons on the front and back hem between the legs. I modelled it after this and other similar 1910s examples:
I've since changed the ribbon to a blue one.

The flap.






I made the corset using the 1910s pattern provided by Jennifer of Festive Attyre. I found her instructions very thorough and useful though I could've chosen a better fabric and in retrospect the corset turned out a bit too big for me. But to take it apart is just too much for me after the super annoying sewing process (bad fabric choice, sewing machine playing up, nerves in frays, not good).


I still need to sew on the suspenders for stockings. And get the stockings. Maybe the suspenders pulling down on the stockings will help with the wrinkling of the corset hem.

There's also a strange pokey edge at the back where the centre back bones end.


See? A wrinkly mess. Meh.
Because I've narrowed my wardrobe choices roughly on 1914, I needed a relatively narrow petticoat which I modelled after this advertisement picture from 1914. The skirt is narrow at the hips and there is a box pleated hem flounce that starts at knee-height.
I might have to sew one more horizontal tuck above the knee to shorten the petticoat a little more.

Lastly, I made a little corset cover blouse. Many such blouses of the era seem to have been loose-fitting and baggy at the bodice, with a drawstring at the waist but somehow that didn't work for me. Also, I'm cheating a little: I'm wearing a modern bra under my shift in these photos. Going without just felt too emancipated and uncomfortable and I wasn't able to tuck the shift into my corset securely enough to support the bust (as they apparently did in 1914). I might make a 1914 version of a brassiere later if I feel like it.







Next up will be a walking suit. I'm fascinated by the baggy skirt fashion of 1910s and will try to produce something similar. I also have a vintage saree set aside for an evening dress.
For inspiration I've compiled a couple of pinboards of 1910s fashion and 1910s underwear .


7 kommenttia:

  1. Ooooooh!! I love everything you have made for your 1914 project! I'm starting a 1916 project soon so I very much appreciate your shift and corset cover and those will be the first items I start on. I was going to make a loose envelope chemise, but after seeing yours that gathers at the waist, I may change my mind. Yours looks so lovely! Adding the garter clips to your corset will help pull everything down and the buckling in the back is perfectly normal. I think your corset is lovely!! And your petticoat is perfect a well!! Can't wait to see your dress!
    Blessings!
    Gina

    VastaaPoista
  2. My 1910s corset always wrinkles a little over my bum. I think it's just due to the fact that the bones end before that point and movement makes the fabric move around. The undies are fun! I look forward to seeing the outer clothing. :)

    Best,
    Quinn

    VastaaPoista
  3. Wonderfully made underpinnings, now I'm curious about how the actual dress will turn out! Very interesting new project :)

    Sabine

    VastaaPoista